Easy hiking to the top of Volušnica mountain. This is a great option for those who have never tried hiking before. The route is completely safe. Physically, it is suitable for all age groups, although it is not a walk in the park. It does not require an overnight stay in a tent. The reward for your efforts will be extraordinary views and panoramas of the magical nature of Montenegro. It's also a great reason to visit the Prokletije National Park and the Grebaja Valley.
Preparation for the hike.
The best time for the hike is during the summer months. In June, you can still find snow on the peaks, while the valley will be filled with green grass and flowers.
Keep in mind that nights in the mountains are very cold, even in summer. Therefore, if you plan to go in May or September, you risk experiencing extremely cold nights.
Accommodation.
In the valley itself, at the foot of the mountain, there are many hotels with cottages that have everything you need for a few nights' stay. To start the hike in the morning, it’s better to spend the night in one of these complexes and begin the ascent with fresh energy. After the hike, it’s also better to spend the night here to rest properly. So, you should book accommodation for at least two nights.
Katun Maja Karanfil
The complex is located here. It consists of a dozen cottages. Across the road, there is a large parking area where you can park your car for free.
The cottages have WiFi, two bunk beds, a toilet with a shower and an electric boiler. Additionally, there’s an electric coffee pot for boiling water.
Avoid bringing too many perishable products, as there is no refrigerator. The complex has a small restaurant, if it can be called that. Breakfast was included in the stay, usually an omelet or a doughnut, plus coffee or tea. For lunch and dinner, you can order separately or visit any nearby restaurant within walking distance if you don’t prefer the local cuisine.
Nights in the mountains are very cold, but in summer, the cottages are very comfortable and warm even without heating. Don’t worry if you don’t find a heater inside; it’s not needed during the summer despite the cold outside.
Bungalows Prokletije Tuzović
This complex is located here. You can park your car on the premises, although the parking area is smaller.
The amenities in the cottages are the same as in Katun Maja Karanfil: WiFi, beds, shower, boiler, and basic facilities.
There is no restaurant in the complex, so no breakfast is provided—just coffee at most. However, there’s a good restaurant nearby by Montenegrin standards.
The premises feature numerous hammocks, loungers, verandas, tables, and swings. In the evenings, a fire is lit, where you can warm up and socialize with other visitors. This is a great place to spend more than just a couple of days, enjoying harmony with nature under the shade of trees.
Personally, in my opinion, if you're passing through for a couple of days, it's better to rent modest accommodation at the foot of the mountain (the complexes I mentioned earlier). However, if you plan to stay longer, you should consider accommodation with a kitchen in the village of Gusine, which offers more choices and conveniences such as shops, cafes, a market, and supermarkets.
Equipment.
We always planned our hikes so that we stayed overnight in a hotel or bungalow. Therefore, you don’t need any tents.
Trim your toenails. (Ladies, remove the gel, gel polish, or acrylic from your toenails). This is important! In this hike, it won't be an issue. But during longer treks and with pressure on your toes, you might lose toenails if they are too long.
Footwear.
The most important thing is footwear. It doesn’t have to be branded, expensive hiking boots. Here are a few key criteria:
- The footwear shouldn’t chafe, so it should be tried and tested. If you bought new shoes, wear them for at least a day before the hike.
- Hiking shoes should be loose-fitting, slightly larger than your size. It is recommended to wear hiking shoes half a size bigger than your usual size, as by the end of the hike, your feet may swell, causing discomfort or even severe pain.
- Ideally, the shoes should provide ankle support through the height of the boot.
- Lightweight and durable.
- Thick or rigid soles to prevent feeling every rock underfoot.
Specialized hiking shoes are better because they are more durable and lighter. Avoid bringing expensive shoes unless they are made for hiking; they may not survive the trek. Hiking can be tough on footwear, often causing them to tear.
Hiking Poles.
Many underestimate this accessory, but hiking poles make life much easier. They’re especially helpful when climbing uphill or descending. By distributing weight to your arms, you reduce strain on your legs. Your knees will thank you. When selecting poles, consider your height and weight.
Warm Clothing.
Always check the weather. If it’s cloudy and windy in the mountains, it can get quite cold even during the day, especially when clouds descend over the peaks. On such days, warm clothing and a windbreaker are essential. However, if the weather is sunny, shorts and a T-shirt should suffice for the entire hike.
Accessories.
- A sun hat is a must.
- Sunscreen. UV radiation is much stronger in the mountains, posing a high risk of sunburn, even in winter.
- A sweatband or wristband. This depends on personal preference, but during intense physical activity in hot weather, sweat can run into your eyes, and a headband can come in handy.
- A hiking seat pad. You’ll take frequent breaks and need a place to sit. A pad is indispensable in these situations.
- A flashlight. It’s best to return before dark, but if you can’t, a flashlight will be invaluable.
- A hiking knife, just in case.
- A fire source: matches, a lighter, or a firestarter. Only for emergencies. Open fires are strictly prohibited in national parks.
- Wipes.
- A power bank for your phone. You’ll use your phone frequently for navigation and, of course, for photos and videos.
- Medical tape. If you notice your shoes are rubbing, apply tape immediately to prevent ruining your hike.
- Insect repellent. The mountains are usually cool, and Montenegrin mountains rarely have mosquitoes. However, on a hot summer day near livestock pastures, flies can be quite annoying.
Food.
Bring snacks for the journey. You’ll burn a lot of calories along the way. On a one-day hike, you can lose up to 15,000 calories. Hiking is an excellent way to lose weight, but it’s essential to maintain balance. Having lunch on the way back is a good idea.
Make sure to bring something sweet and high-calorie, like a chocolate bar. During the ascent, your blood sugar may drop sharply, leading to dizziness, low blood pressure, and weakness. A quick glucose boost from a chocolate bar will give you the energy to finish the hike.
Water.
Bring water. This is very individual. On a hot day during an eight-hour hike, I ’ve seen someone barely sip a 0.5-liter bottle while I drank four liters in the same time. The bigger you are, the more water you need. However, drinking too much water can also be harmful. Excess water flushes electrolytes from your body through sweat, increasing thirst. Therefore, it’s better to drink special electrolyte water. Sports stores sell powders (isotonics) to dissolve in water. You should have regular water and isotonic drinks and alternate between them. In cold weather, water consumption is noticeably lower. For an average person, two liters of water should be enough for a hike to Volušnica. If it’s not, you can refill from a glacial stream along the way.
How to Get There.
Mount Volushnica is located in the Grebaje Valley (on the map), which in turn is located in the Prokletije National Park. This park extends beyond the borders of Montenegro into Albania.
There are 2 ways to reach it by car from Podgorica.
Mateševo-Andrijevica.
Via Mateševo-Andrijevica. This is a mountain road with many hairpin turns that will take you from the central part of the country to the east, towards the town of Plav. It's a long and difficult stretch of road in very poor condition. The whole trip will take about 2.5 hours. Part of the route will be on the highway, but that won't make it much easier.
Through Albania.
There is an alternative route through Albania. Yes, you'll have to cross the border twice in one direction, and if you go back the same way, you'll cross it again twice. In the peak of summer, for example in August, crossing the Montenegro-Albania border (Bajaje) can take anywhere from 40 minutes to an hour. But in other months, you can get through this checkpoint in 10-15 minutes.
In Albania, you will encounter a relatively new road in excellent condition, offering stunning views, no less beautiful than those in Montenegro. I highly recommend it. Along the way, you'll find plenty of panoramas, viewing spots, and roadside cafes.
The second checkpoint from Albania to Montenegro looks more like a goat path for drug trafficking. It's a small guard booth by the road with a manual barrier. When you approach, a border guard will come out and take your passports to the booth. There, they will write down your details in the logbook. This may take some time, causing traffic jams. "Locals" are allowed to pass without queue, without document checks, and without inspection, so don’t be surprised.
The entire trip will take about two hours. The road is much more comfortable and scenic. I recommend taking this route at least once.
The entrance to the park is paid. You can pay at the checkpoint when entering the park. Be sure to keep the receipt and ticket, as they may be checked upon exit. In the evening and at night, the entrance is open, and you can pass freely. However, they will still ask you to pay upon exit if you haven’t done so earlier.
Route
For navigation, I recommend using the mobile app maps.me. It provides better coverage of hiking trails and dirt roads. It also shows the elevation gain or loss in the mountains.
The start can be anywhere in the valley. For example, from this junction. From there, plot the route to the summit of Volushnica. The summit's altitude above sea level is 1876 meters.
The route is 4 km one way. But take it seriously, as along the entire route, you will have to gain approximately 800 meters of elevation. Even a climb of several hundred meters is a significant cardio load for anyone. Therefore, from the very start, conserve your energy, and avoid making sudden bursts in the early stages of the ascent.
The time to climb is very individual, ranging from 1.5 hours to 4 hours one way. It's not just about endurance. You'll spend time photographing, perhaps just relaxing in a beautiful spot, or making a few extra stops along the way.
Plan your strength for the return journey. The distance is also important. On the way down, it will be easier; there are no such cardio loads. But the ease will quickly vanish when you start feeling pain in your toes and knees. When descending, it's advisable to tighten your shoes more to ensure a snug fit. This will slightly alleviate the pain in your toes. In any case, the way down is faster.
Forest
The ascent begins through a deciduous forest. From the very start, you'll begin to gain altitude. Conserve your energy. Use the markers on trees and rocks – red circles on a white background. Remember the way back. You won’t get lost, but if you make a wrong turn on the way back, you could end up adding one or two extra kilometers to your route. The forest itself isn’t particularly interesting. Keep in mind that there's much less sunlight in the forest, so it's better to return before dusk, as it becomes completely dark in the forest at that time.
Meadows
The climb through the forest will take a lot of energy. But your efforts will be rewarded. Upon exiting the forest, you'll enter a magical world of “alpine meadows.” This small plateau is covered with dense green grass and flowers. Butterflies will flutter around, and bees will hum in the air. Everything will be bathed in bright light. In the lowlands, a glacial stream of crystal-clear, though cold, water will run. I even drank from it. Here, you'll forget about fatigue.
Summit
After the meadows, the climb will start again. It will be quite steep. This is your "last push." You will need to endure. In the end, your efforts will be rewarded with conquering the summit.
At the summit, the valley of Grebaje (Dolina Grebaje) will be right beneath your feet. The valley will be surrounded by monumental cliffs with snow-capped peaks. You will be standing on one of them.
At the summit, there will be a sign painted with "1876m." Nearby, in a metal box, there will be a visitor's notebook. Everyone can leave their entry there. There are usually pens, but sometimes they may not work. Take one with you just in case.
Usually, there are many people at the summit, but if you wait a little, you can catch a moment when no one else is there except you.
Be careful at the summit and stay away from the edge of the cliff. The drop is about 800m.
In fact, this summit is just an intermediate point of a larger route. But for beginner mountaineers, this is enough to turn back.
Return Path
Before heading back, you can have lunch and rest well. On the way back, you can collect water from the glacial stream in the meadows. While descending, use trekking poles to reduce the strain on your knees.
When you arrive back, you will feel a pleasant sensation. It's hard to describe, but it's exactly what will make you go hiking again despite the difficulty, and next time you will choose a more challenging route.
Night in the Mountains
Usually, after we conquer the mountains, we celebrate it with a bottle of good wine. You can do it at a restaurant. Or you can walk a little away from the village into the Grebaje Valley and settle on one of the open meadows, free of trees. If there is no moon, there will be complete darkness around and only the dim light of stars will illuminate the valley. Here, in complete darkness with no light pollution from city lights, you can enjoy the starry sky. Bring a blanket, a warm fleece, wine, and a tripod for night photography.
With exposures of 2, 5, or 10 minutes, you'll get beautiful photos of the starry sky. You can also plan your trip according to the astronomical calendar to catch a meteor shower and see hundreds of falling meteors and fireballs in an hour.
Grebaje Valley (Dolina Grebaje)
Grebaje Valley This is essentially mountain meadows, pastureland for cows. A must-visit place. It is especially beautiful in late May or early June when everything around is covered in flowers. But it is also very pleasant in other months.
If you head towards the valley, on the left side, you can see a rock that looks like two kissing kittens.
Conclusion
In fact, Volushnica is just one of many routes available in the valley. But it is a great hike to start with, to test your strength. And for this, you don't need to camp in the forest in tents, or buy a bunch of expensive hiking gear. These are perfect weekends that you will remember for a lifetime.
