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Pena Palace in the town of Sintra, not far from Lisbon, is something you simply have to see with your own eyes. From a distance, it looks like a dollhouse straight out of an animated film. Its official name in Portuguese is Palácio da Pena. The Portuguese word pena comes from the Latin pinna, meaning “rock” or “peak.” So, let me share with you some “gossip” about the palace.
I'm not sure whether I should go into details about how and when to get there, so I’ll leave the dry facts and practical tips for the end of the article.
Interesting facts
One clear morning, visitors stepped onto the terrace and were left breathless: a vivid blue stretch of the Atlantic Ocean unfolded before them. Cascais to the west, Lisbon in the distance — everything lay open like a map in the palm of your hand, from an altitude of 528 meters. It's said that one of the guests whispered, “It feels like standing on the bow of a massive ship among the clouds.”
In reality, due to the palace’s proximity to the ocean and high humidity, clouds often drift through the area, and fog is common. Even if it's sunny down in town, that doesn’t guarantee you’ll see the same view those tourists did who compared the observation deck to a ship’s deck. Still, the palace is worth visiting in any weather.
Chapel Among the Clouds
Back in the 12th century, a traveler climbed to a small chapel of Our Lady of Pena atop a mist-shrouded mountain, surrounded only by an oak grove and birdsong. It was a quiet haven where one could hear the wind and their own soul. People came here to pray. This is where the idea of pilgrimage began — and centuries later, it transformed into a place of royal splendor. On the nearby hill of Cruz Alta now stands a large stone cross, from which an incredible view of Pena Palace opens up.
You can still climb that hill today, but only if you enjoy peaceful nature — there’s no adrenaline or extreme adventure here, just silence, a gentle uphill walk, and a breathtaking view.
Lightning Strike and Ruins
Many centuries ago, a small monastery was built on this spot. One night in 1755, the sky split open from a lightning strike, and flames consumed part of the monastery — already partially destroyed during the devastating Lisbon earthquake. In the decades that followed, the place stood nearly abandoned — only the wind whistled through the empty walls, like the echo of long-forgotten prayers.
The Romantic Vision of King Ferdinand
One ordinary morning in 1838, King Ferdinand II was strolling among the ruins near Sintra — the very remains of the monastery of the Order of Saint Jerome. Inspired by the ancient stone arches and wild vegetation, he ordered the site to be transformed into a truly romantic palace. It became one of the most refined reconstructions, blending key elements of Portuguese history and architecture into a single structure. Within just a few years, the palace blossomed with architectural flair: red towers, yellow façades, neo-Gothic spires, and Moorish motifs.
This is not just a palace — it’s a fantastic interpretation of Gothic, Manueline, Mudéjar, and many other styles.
Every visitor says they’ve never seen a palace quite like Pena. It’s truly unique — and impossible to forget.
The Triton Portal (“Coral Gate”)
Take a closer look at the stone Triton with grapevine roots in his hair above the gate. This isn’t just decorative — it’s an allegory of the creation of the world and a guardian of the threshold. The design was envisioned by King Ferdinand II and symbolizes both life and death. Tourists tend to admire its form more than reflect on its deeper meaning.[Parques de Sintra]
Hidden Doors, Narrow Tunnels, Underground Passages, and Micro-Landscapes
Every royal palace has its fair share of secret passages, narrow corridors, and concealed stairways — and this one is no exception. During restoration work in 2012, photographer Gene Krasko captured one of the narrow “secret” passageways built into the wall beneath the Pena towers. These barely noticeable doors led to internal service quarters and were likely used for quick movements by servants, allowing them to discreetly deliver royal tea or important letters.
Local legends claim that beneath the mountain run manmade tunnels said to connect Pena Palace with the Castle of the Moors or even with the nearby Quinta da Regaleira (which, by the way, can be seen from the Castle of the Moors through a free binocular viewer mounted on the wall). While there is no archaeological confirmation, stories of a “princely underground path” have some grounding, since many similar tunnels do exist in the Sintra area.
According to other legends, the park contains “artificial caves,” tiny ponds, and burrows among the overgrowth — all built in such a way as to give the impression that the park is made up of a series of secret, fantastical worlds. Sometimes they’re called the “foggy tunnels of Pena.”
Unfortunately, regular tourists can’t explore these areas — access is limited to designated paths, and all the “secret” passages are closed to visitors.
The Chalet of the Countess of Edla
Not far from the main palace (about 1.5 km away) is a hidden miniature “satellite” — the Chalet of the Countess of Edla (entry requires a separate ticket; the structure is located 100 meters below Pena Palace). It was built in the style of a Swiss chalet at the request of King Ferdinand II and his second wife, opera singer Elise Hensler, Countess of Edla, as a private retreat. The construction was done “by eye,” without architectural plans, which made future restoration a real challenge for architects.
The chalet’s design blends Gothic, medieval, and Romantic elements, with vibrant colors, intricate wood carvings, and decorative features. It’s surrounded by lush gardens, and its windows offer panoramic views of the surrounding forests and hills.
A Park from a Distant World
One spring morning, Baron Wilhelm von Eschwege awoke to the sound of parrots singing and decided to plant vegetation unusual for the region. That’s how California redwoods, Japanese cryptomeria, and Chinese ginkgo biloba came to be here. Thus was born a park where one can walk among exotic giants and feel like an explorer discovering new continents.
Pena Palace is considered the “prototype” of the European romantic park-palace — this was the first time, quite intentionally, that a palace was blended with untamed nature, paving the way for many similar sites in Germany and the United Kingdom.
A Palace That Whispers Legends
They say that at night, when the moon glides softly over the towers, you can hear the whispers of lovestruck princesses and the gentle laughter of courtly ladies who once strolled the marble galleries. And sometimes it feels as though the shadows of old monks still gather in prayer at the former chapel — where once the ruins of a monastery became a palace.
But the palace is closed at night, so we’ll never know for sure. All that’s left is to believe the tales. And perhaps… would the monks and princesses even want to whisper if they knew strangers were watching?
The Cannon on the Queen’s Terrace
Beneath the tall clock tower on the southern terrace once stood a real miniature solar cannon that would fire a soft blank shot exactly at 12:00 noon, summoning guests and courtiers to lunch. The small cannon featured a lens on a horizontal sundial — a 19th-century “natural alarm clock”: at noon, sunlight was focused through the lens and ignited a powder charge, triggering an automatic shot.
During restoration work, the cannon was subtly disguised as a decorative feature, but near the sundial on the ground there’s still a small hatch — once used to load the powder.
UNESCO World Heritage
In 1995, UNESCO officially included Pena Palace on its list of World Heritage Sites — thus, the romantic dream of Ferdinand II became a living legend. Today, the palace terraces host state ceremonies, weddings, and tourist tours. Pena Palace is considered one of the “Seven Wonders of Portugal” and is used for official events by the President and other government officials.
Website with the Pena Quest
Parques de Sintra внедрили для посетителей Pena Quest — мобильный интерактивный квест, который помогает исследовать парк и окрестности Дворца Пена в игровой форме.
- At the entrance to Pena Park, if you don’t have mobile internet, connect to the free Wi-Fi Boxtolife (password: penaquest).
- Scan the QR code on site or open the link in your browser
Quest Routes
– Route of the Camellia Garden — about 1 hour
– Route of the Chalet of the Countess of Edla — 2 hours 30 minutes (including return)
Game Mechanics
– At each checkpoint, the system presents a task (a riddle, question, or mini-game).
– After answering correctly, you receive information about the next location.
– At any time, you can open the GPS map so you don’t get lost among the park’s trails.
Final Reward
By collecting all the “stars” or “achievements,” you’ll receive a promo code for a gift in the official Pena Palace shop.
The platform works exclusively in a mobile browser.
What to See from the Outside
To access the grounds of Pena Park, you’ll need to purchase a ticket. Tickets can be bought online (with a 15% discount) or at the entrance — either from regular ticket booths or self-service machines.
Note: entrance to the palace itself follows a strict schedule and requires a separate ticket. By around 10:00–11:00 a.m., “same-day” tickets usually sell out. So, to get inside the palace, be sure to buy tickets in advance.
From the outside, Pena Palace offers a true spectacle of shapes, colors, and scenery:
Colorful Façades and Azulejos
The façades are painted in vibrant shades of red, yellow, and gray, and some sections are decorated with azulejos — elegant blue-and-white ceramic tiles with intricate patterns.
Sculptural Details
Above the “Coral Gate” rises the legendary Triton with grapevine roots in his hair, and along the walls, you can spot eerie gargoyles and stone guardians (mentioned earlier).
Moorish Battlements and Minarets
Crenellated walls, miniature minarets with conical domes, and cylindrical bastions evoke elements of Islamic and Indian architecture.
Entrance Bridge and Gates
The palace stands atop a rocky hill, enclosed by massive walls with two main gates — one of which features a drawbridge spanning a dry moat.
Panoramic Views from the Terraces
From the outer terraces, you can see the pine and oak thickets of Pena Park, the ruins of the Moorish Castle, the tiled rooftops of Sintra, the winding coastline of Cascais, and — on a clear day — the blue expanse of the Atlantic Ocean and the distant outline of Lisbon on the horizon.
Blending with Nature
The massive granite boulders on which the palace stands seem carved into the landscape, while all around, exotic sequoias, cryptomerias, and ferns create a true botanical theater.
Now let’s move on to the practical stuff: where, when, and how to go, how to buy tickets — plus a few tips from personal experience.
Where and How to Buy Tickets
I mentioned earlier that it’s best to buy your tickets in advance, and doing it online is also cheaper.
Let me explain a bit more, in case you're planning a trip to Sintra to visit Pena Palace.
To access both Pena Palace and its park, I strongly recommend purchasing your tickets online in advance — it gives you a 15% discount and guarantees entrance during your selected time slot. If you’re late, you lose the right to enter the palace interiors — and chances are, you won’t feel like paying again.
Arrive early. From the park entrance, a free shuttle bus (packed like sardines) runs up to the palace, but there are many people waiting. If you’d rather not hike up, plan for at least 30 minutes just to wait in line for the bus. Walking takes 15–20 minutes, but it’s uphill. And the scenery is beautiful, so you’ll probably want to stop for photos — budget at least half an hour for the walk.
One more thing: once you reach the palace, after passing through the double gates and the bridge, you’ll see a huge line for entering the building. If your time slot has arrived, skip the queue and go directly to the security guard. He’ll scan your ticket and let you in.
If you wait in line instead, you might miss your entry window entirely.
Admission is allowed only during your exact time slot, and the reason for the long queue is unclear — maybe it’s herd instinct: “everyone’s standing, so I should too,” because I didn’t see any logical reason for it. Guests are admitted in small groups every 30 minutes, strictly according to the time printed on the ticket. (This is very important.)
Instructions
- Go to the official Parques de Sintra website or find it on Google Maps — there’s a link available there.
– Select your language
– Go to the section “Buy tickets – Park and National Palace of Pena”
- Choose your ticket type (see the “Opening times and prices” section):
• Adults (18–64): €20
• Youth (6–17) and seniors (65+): €18
• Children (0–5): free
• Family ticket (2 adults + 2 teens): €65
“Park only” (park grounds and nearby sites, viewpoints, the chalet, lakes, and temples):
• Adults: €10
• Youth/seniors: €9
• Children under 6: free
• Family ticket: €35
Consider whether the family ticket is cost-effective — it only makes sense if you have two children aged 6–17. With just one child, it’s not worth it.
- Choose a date and time slot to enter the palace:
– Palace hours: 09:30 to 18:30 (last admission at 18:00)
– If you miss your slot, the ticket is non-refundable
– Park hours: 09:00 to 19:00 (last entry at 18:00), but I recommend setting aside at least an hour — preferably more — for the park. There are several trails leading to nearby peaks for those who enjoy walking.
Park entry is allowed at any time between 9:00 and 19:00 without time slots.
- Payment by bank card
– After payment, you’ll receive an e-ticket by email
– Show the e-ticket (printed or on your screen) at the park entrance — the barcode will be scanned by security. Be sure to arrive at the palace on time.
- Buying tickets on-site (less convenient):
– The ticket office is located to the right of the park entrance (Estrada da Pena, 2710-609 Sintra) and is open until 18:00, but during high season, queues can last several hours, and Palace + Park tickets sell out quickly.
– Self-service ticket machines are also available — to the right before the entrance.
Take note that there are two separate lanes at the entrance:
— “With Ticket” (for those who already have an online ticket or one from the self-service machines)
— “Without Ticket” (this lane leads you through the ticket offices if you haven’t purchased a ticket yet)
Useful Tips:
– Plan your visit to the palace for early morning or later in the afternoon (after 2:00 PM there are usually fewer people).
– Don’t forget your time slot: if you’re late, you won’t be allowed into the palace (the park, however, is accessible throughout operating hours without time restrictions).
– The shuttle from “Park Entrance → Palace” can be added when buying your ticket (runs every 15 minutes and is free).
– Be prepared for crowds — and for the fact that your photos will likely include other people. Accepting this will help preserve your peace of mind.
– Be respectful to others. Don’t push. Don’t go against the flow. Don’t deliberately step into someone’s shot. Remember: everyone came for the same reason. Don’t turn your or someone else’s visit into a stressful experience.
I hope this helps you enjoy the beauty of Pena Palace without unnecessary queues or frustration — and get the most out of this popular, far-from-empty destination.
How to Get There by Public Transport – Route Overview
You can get to Sintra from Lisbon by public transport (this same route also works for locals or guests departing from Sintra’s train station):
1. Train “Lisbon → Sintra”
Plan to leave Lisbon in time to catch one of the morning trains (e.g., between 8:00–9:00), so you arrive in Sintra around 9:00–9:30 and have time before the palace opens at 9:30.
Take the suburban CP Urbanos train (Linhas de Sintra), which departs from Rossio or Oriente stations.
– Travel time: approximately 40–45 minutes
– Departure interval: every 20–30 minutes
– Tickets: buy from station machines or via the CP app. The Viva Viagem card (rechargeable before boarding) is convenient to use.
2. Sintra (station) → Pena Palace
On the bus, try to sit on the right side — it offers the best views of the Sintra Valley and the palace as you ascend.
2.1. Bus 434
Exit the train and you’ll arrive at Sintra’s main station square. Nearby is the Scotturb stop for Bus No. 434 (departures roughly every 30 minutes).
Route: Sintra (station) → town center → Quinta da Regaleira → Pena Palace → Castle of the Moors → back to the station.
The ride to the palace takes about 15–20 minutes. Ticket: ~€5 one way (pay in cash or by card to the driver).
2.2. Or Bus 435
Also departs from the Sintra station but skips the town center and Quinta da Regaleira, offering a more direct route to Pena Palace. Timing and fares are similar to Bus 434.
2.3. Walking Route from Sintra Center
If you’re already in the town center or visiting nearby sites and enjoy walking:
From Praça da República (Portugal Square), follow the PR1 trail (Caminho da Pena) — about 4 km with a 250 m elevation gain, taking up to an hour.
Alternatively, use your phone map to avoid getting lost.
2.4. Tuk-tuk or Private Shuttle
This may be the most convenient option — but also the most expensive. You can arrange one near parking areas, at the station, or closer to the palace hill if approaching from the town center.
Driving to Pena Palace
At first glance, driving may seem more convenient — you're not tied to train or bus schedules and don't have to pay for multiple transfers. But Sintra is an old town, built long before private cars — especially in such numbers. The main issue is: where to park?
Driving Route from Lisbon to Sintra
Head west from Lisbon on the IC19 (A16) highway, marked “Sintra / Cascais.” After about 25 km, take the exit for Sintra Centro and follow signs toward the historic center.
Use navigation or maps to avoid getting lost.
Important: The streets in Sintra are quite narrow and often jammed with traffic. Don’t try to cut in or overtake the flow — stay calm, follow the line, and be courteous.
If traffic jams are too stressful for you, leave your car at the train station parking lot and continue your journey via public transport as described earlier.
When driving up the mountain (provided the road hasn’t been closed to private vehicles), almost all parking spots along the roadside are prohibited — wooden boundary posts have been installed.
However, further along the road, you’ll occasionally find entrances to parking areas on both the right and left sides.
Read the signs carefully — some may be private lots.
Small public parking areas for 20–40 cars are free (this was the case in April), but in high season, they may become paid, or access may be completely restricted to everyone except buses and tuk-tuks, in order to maintain a peaceful environment for all visitors.
Do not leave your car on the roadside — there is a high chance it will be towed due to the heavy and complicated traffic.
There are also a few small parking bays along the roadside, but pay close attention to the signs, as some may be reserved for buses, and in that case, your car might also be towed.
Be careful: the road from the town center to the palace is one-way.
So if you pass your planned parking spot, you won’t be able to turn back.
I saw two or three parking areas along the road leading to the palace (already after entering the mountain road).
Near the palace itself (on the left side of the gate), there is a small parking lot (for about 10–15 cars), but the chance of finding a free space there is very low.
If you’re willing to take the risk — drive there. If you're out of luck, you can leave your car on the way down from the palace — there are also several parking spots in that area..
Study the satellite map carefully, find all areas with parking, and choose a few backup options in case your main spot is taken.
In any case, you’ll have to walk.
We left our car somewhere around here, across from some chalet (but we didn’t go inside — maybe next time).
Then we walked up the road to the turn for the Castle of the Moors, and from there continued on foot to Pena Palace.
Be careful on the curves — large tourist buses drive up there dangerously fast and have poor visibility, so stay close to the walls to avoid getting hit.
On the way back, we walked to the Castle of the Moors, and we could have stopped by the Chalet, but we were already too tired.
Even if you have your own transport, you’ll still be walking a lot, so bring water and at least some fruit or snacks.
Public restrooms are available along the road (they were free in April, but in high season there may be an additional charge).
General Tips
- Arrive early (between 8:00–9:00 AM) — this gives you the best chance to find parking and avoid long lines.
- Keep your train station parking ticket — it may give you access to Park & Ride services or a discount on the shuttle to major attractions.
- Keep track of your time to make it to your scheduled palace entry slot (entry to the interior is only allowed at the pre-booked time).
When is the best time to visit Sintra
- Spring (March–May) and early autumn (September–October): the weather is warm but not hot, flowers bloom in the park or a carpet of golden-red leaves appears (I saw it in photos), and the flow of tourists is much lighter than in summer.
We visited in April. I’d like to go again in October. - Weekdays, especially Tuesday to Thursday: before school holidays and on workdays, local excursions are almost never organized, so you can stroll around almost without crowds or queues.
It’s quite obvious, but if you can’t visit on weekdays — just be prepared for crowds and lines. - At opening time (9:30–10:30 AM): the first visitors are just entering the park, and lines for tickets and the shuttle are minimal. And after 3:00 PM: most tour groups have already left, the light gets softer for photos, and even if there was morning fog, it will most likely have cleared by midday.
When you should avoid visiting
- High season (July–August) — the largest number of tourists from all over the world and very hot weather (up to +30 °C), especially between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM.
- Weekends and public holidays — Saturday, Sunday, and all Portuguese holidays: organized bus groups arrive before the gates even open, and queues can fill the square in front of the ticket office an hour before opening.
We ended up visiting on one of those days — the weather was damp and rainy at first, but around 11:00 it improved, and the number of visitors increased dramatically. - Damp winter weather (December–February) — frequent rains and cloudiness: while the “ghostly” atmosphere has its own charm, viewpoints may be shrouded in fog, and the paths can be slippery.
- After storms — it may seem like no one will be around after a storm or hurricane, but the problem is that such weather usually causes damage to roofs, facades, and uprooted trees. As a result, there’s a high chance that the site will be closed for several days or even a week for clearing, repairs, and minor restoration works.
I really hope you found this interesting and helpful.
If you're unsure about hiring a guide and have someone in mind — I recommend using the services of an experienced guide.
They’ll share the most fascinating legends, draw your attention to little details that regular tourists often miss, and — most importantly — create an itinerary tailored to your preferences.
The key is that the guide speaks a language you understand, so you can fully immerse yourself in the details.
As for what you can see inside the Palace of Pena — I won’t tell you, because when we were at the ticket booth at 10:30 AM, the next available slot was 4:30 PM, and ten minutes later, the tickets were completely sold out.
So we didn’t make it inside. This time.
But if I do get to visit the palace's interiors, I’ll definitely write a separate article about it.
Wishing you wonderful travels and discoveries.
In the next article, I’ll tell you about the Castle of the Moors, which you can visit on the same day as the Palace of Pena.
Até breve!